Dragon fruit is a fruit that many friends like. In fact, dragon fruit can be planted not only outdoors or in greenhouses, but also potted plants. How is the potted dragon fruit planted? Here is a brief introduction to the planting method of pitaya potted plants.
Dragon's growth habit
The dragon fruit has strong adaptability and no soil quality. As long as the temperature is not lower than 8 °C for a long time, it can be planted. In the low temperature in the north, it can be placed indoors for winter. A small amount of cultivated dragon fruit can buy seedlings or ask some friends to trim the branches (10-15 cm long), generally inserted in the plain sand can survive. If the management is good, see the flowers more than 70 days after planting the seedlings.
Dragon fruit can be continuously flowered from April to November every year. The mature fruit weighs more than 500 grams, and the large one can reach 1500 grams. The skin is bright red, bright and eye-catching, and is also decorated with golden scales. The flesh has two kinds of red and white, the fruit is sweet but not greasy, light and aromatic, better than cantaloupe, and the taste is excellent.
Preparation of pots and culture soil
Pitaya is a shallow root plant. It is not necessary to change the pot during the cultivation process. It can use a 25-35 cm diameter mud pot, wooden box and other containers with good water permeability. It is best not to use a less permeable container such as a plastic basin or a porcelain basin. The pots must be disinfected before planting, and the new mats can be disinfected. However, it must be soaked in clean water for several hours to discharge the dirty gas in the pores on the basin wall, otherwise it will affect the normal growth of the root system.
The dragon fruit has strict requirements on the culture soil, but the soil must be loose and breathable, well drained, neutral or slightly acidic soil, and not alkaline soil. Family potted plants can be self-cultivated. Use 6 parts of humus soil, 2 parts of manure soil and coarse river sand, and mix them evenly. Stack for more than half a month.
Upper basin and seedling management
Potted dragon fruit is best to use cutting seedlings, as long as the seedlings have roots and send new branches to move the seedlings on the basin. First, two pieces of staggered stacked mud tiles are placed on the bottom of the basin, and then a layer of 3-5 cm thick pebbles or large coarse sand is placed on the bottom of the basin as a drainage layer. Put more than half of the prepared culture soil, at the center of the potting soil, pile up two pile-shaped mounds, place the two seedlings on the mound, the plant spacing is no more than 5 cm, and the roots are scattered in the soil. Heap around. Then insert a stick between the two seedlings and tie the seedlings and the stick together. At this time, the direction of the seedlings should be adjusted, and the male side of the seedlings faces south. The triangular stems of the dragon fruit have the yin and yang faces. The two sides of the three cores are the widest, the largest, and the lighter one is the shade. The ribbed side is the sunny side). Then pour the soil to the pot along the mouth 3 cm, gently press the soil around the plant by hand, and then pour the water once, after 1 week of slow seedling, move to the balcony for normal management, and pay attention to the sun facing south.
Dragon fruit is a drought-tolerant plant, so do not wet it, do not see dry and not water. Do not apply too much organic fertilizer solution based on nitrogen fertilizer once a week. Dragon fruit is a Xiyang plant. But at noon in the summer when the sun is too strong, it should be properly shaded. At the same time, the new side buds on the stems should be removed at any time, leaving only the top buds and promoting the height. When the plant height is about 1 meter long, the stem tip about 3 cm long is cut at the top, causing the lateral branches to be emitted at the tip. When the top side branch grows to about 50 cm. Then insert 4 bamboo rafts about 1 meter around the edge of the basin, tie the beam to the top of the bamboo raft, and tie the side branches to the beam to make it flat or naturally droop. When the side branches exceed 80 cm, the stem tip should be cut off by about 3 cm to reduce nutrient consumption, promote flower bud differentiation, and early flowering results. If managed well, it will bloom in 7-8 months.
Flowering management of dragon fruit
Pitaya has a long flowering period and a large number of flowers, which has a high demand for nutrition. Therefore, in addition to the management of fertilizer and water in the seedling stage, the organic liquid fertilizer containing phosphorus and potassium fertilizer should be applied once in the first half of the flowering period, and it should be chased once every 5-7 days. The balcony and roof potted dragon fruit are limited by the amount of potting soil and nutrient supply, so the side branches can't stay too long, each branch can't exceed 3 flowers, and finally two foods should be taken, leaving only one result.
Pitaya can be self-pollinated and sturdy, but the cross-pollination rate is higher, the fruit is more delicious, and the condition should be artificially pollinated. When the flowers are in the evening, use a new brush to pick up the pollen from the stamens of an flower, and play it on the stigma of another flower.
Management after harvesting and wintering
After November every year, the fruit is basically harvested. At this time, the base fertilizer should be applied once. The method is to dig up the soil around the side of the basin with a small hand shovel about 10 cm deep, temporarily pile the soil at the root of the plant, and then apply the organic fertilizer mixed with manure and chicken manure, and then Restore the soil, pour the water once, and prepare for the winter.
In most places in the north, you need to protect against cold, just move it indoors. It is best to place it on the sun sill. It should be noted that it is not possible to fertilize during the winter. Properly control the watering. Don't leave the room too early after the spring, usually after mid-May. After leaving the room, the first year is taken over the side branch of the fruit, and cut from the near root. The purpose is to promote the emergence of new side branches, to lay the foundation for early flowering in the same year, otherwise the original side branches can no longer bloom.
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